The Milano Graffiti-Out

If you wander in Milan, Italy, you can't escape the many walls that are painted with often weird and impressive art. I'm not sure whether I should call these murals or graffiti, but I'm sure I want to explore murals in Milan and in Budapest more.

Balazs Kis

7/6/20262 min read

No bridge remains unpainted: Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, Milan, Italy
No bridge remains unpainted: Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, Milan, Italy

In Milan, Italy, no wall remains unpainted. Some walls carry artwork that will stop you in your tracks. I'm not sure whether I should call these murals or graffiti. These works have depth, technique, message, while the word 'graffiti' sometimes suggests vandalism. These paintings are everything but that.

The affair began before my daughter moved to the city, and I was scouting for a place for her to live. Part of the process was roaming the streets to assess the neighborhood. I covered most of the Navigli, Bocconi, Darsena, Famagosta neighborhoods. That was when I noticed all those painted walls, power exchange booths, bridges, you name it.

These photos are very intentional but not sophisticated. I haven't looked into the symbolism or the origin of the murals, although I know some come from protest and activism. Milan, especially in these parts, is known for left-leaning, anti-fascist sentiments. "Questo quartiere è antifascista", says one sign. "Milano è rossa", says my business partner.

I have one regret: that I did not take a picture of a mural that shows Alda Merini, a writer and poet who lived in and cherished the Navigli neighborhood. The time will come for that, too. It would make a great project to catalog and analyze some of these, but for that, I'll need to partner with an artist or art historian with expertise about graffiti and murals.

One more thing: if you are a music lover, and good fortune takes you to Milan, walk to the spot where Via Conchetta and Via Ettore Troilo meet. There is an enormous mural that depicts music genres like constellations – you could say it's a star map of music.

There is the odd photo that does not show a mural: it's a weird shop window with some reflections in a well-to-do area. No activism there, only business ambition.

As always, the photos were taken by me and are included here without any post-processing, except for some slight straightening of slanted images.

Scroll down to read the description of each photo.

Description of photos, from left to right and top to bottom:

  1. No bridge remains unpainted: Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, Milan, Italy

  2. Mural or graffiti? This street in Navigli has a lot of weird and activism-inspired wall paintings. Milan, Italy

  3. The Wall of Music Genres at the corner of Via Conchetta and Via Ettore Troilo, Milan, Italy

  4. Mural or graffiti? Somewhere in Navigli or Darsena, Milan, Italy

  5. Mural or graffiti? This is in Darsena, Milan, Italy

  6. Mural or graffiti? Via Magolfa, Milan, Italy

  7. The odd one out: this is shop window with some reflections not far from Cadorna station, Milan, Italy

  8. Not mural because it's not painted on the wall: if memory serves, this is on Corso Garibaldi, Milan, Italy.

  9. Mural or graffiti? Romolo station, Milan, Italy

  10. Mural or graffiti? Romolo station, Milan, Italy

  11. Milan is full of these, I don't remember where I took this. Milan, Italy

  12. Mural or graffiti? Romolo station, Milan, Italy

  13. Along the Alzaia Naviglio Grande, Milan, Italy

  14. Along the Alzaia Naviglio Grande, Milan, Italy

  15. Viale Tibaldi, Milan, Italy